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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. However, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.