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It's pumpkin season and most anticipated time of the year, especially for all the curries and other hearty meals of autumn. This Rajasthani sautéed dish is a regular in my kitchen, and the blend of fresh ginger, chilli and jaggery lends it a wonderful balance of flavour. This layered rice dish, meanwhile, is packed with whole spices, basmati and ghee, which provide enhanced taste to the layers of rice and produce.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

National curry week begins around October 6, so how perfect to celebrate than with a rich, warming, single-pot layered rice dish? For convenience, make the spiced vegetable mixture component in advance and assemble everything on the occasion you plan to eat.

Prep 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Serves 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

First make the curry base. Heat the ghee in a large, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, incorporate the cumin seeds, bay leaves and clove spices, and sauté for a brief moment. Stir in the sliced onion and sauté, frequently turning, for about half an hour, until softened. Once onions begin caramelizing, remove half to a separate dish and set aside (for later use during the layering).

Introduce the fresh chilies and ginger to the remaining onions, cook for a brief period, then stir in the tomato paste, chili powder, turmeric powder and coriander powder, and fry for a minute. Reduce to a low heat, blend in the yogurt and cook for two minutes.

Add the pumpkin pieces and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then cook for several minutes. Pour in the liquid, and add salt to taste. Heat until boiling, then turn down the temperature, cover and cook gently for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway to make sure no sticking to the base of the pot. Sprinkle with coriander, then take off the heat.

Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash the basmati, then put it in a saucepan with a quart of water and the bay leaves, cardamom and seasoning. Bring to a boil, cook for 10-12 minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then strain.

To build the biryani, put a spoonful of warmed ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a secure cover. Spoon one portion the vegetable curry, then top that with some the rice. Sprinkle half the saffron infusion, ginger, mint leaves, cardamom powder and garam masala, then add the caramelized onions. Top with the remaining curry mixture, then arrange the leftover grains. Finish with the remaining clarified butter, saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and spice mix.

Cover with parchment, place lid securely, then cook on the middle shelf of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so the aromas infuse the rice. Remove of the oven, leave to rest, still covered, for 10 minutes, then remove the cover and serve with yogurt sauce and fresh salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Squash with Spice Blend Stir-Fry)

The Indian word "achari" describes flavouring a dish using preserving spices, and the mix contains mustard seeds, fennel, fenugreek seeds, cumin, hing and nigella, but their use extends beyond in preserved foods. This mixture also features in all manner of spiced dishes and stir-fries, such as this one.

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and fennel seeds in a mortar, roughly grind, then set aside. Heat the oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a medium heat. Add the ground spices and the hing, and sauté, stirring, for a brief moment. Mix in the chopped ginger, fry for a short while, then stir in the squash, chili powder and turmeric, and fry, tossing, for several additional minutes.

Pour 50ml water to the pan, salt with seasoning to taste and heat until bubbling. Cover, reduce the heat, and leave to cook for about twenty minutes, mixing midway through. Mix in the jaggery, crushing some of the pieces a little, then incorporate the dried mango, stir well and serve warm with flatbreads or leavened bread.